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Среда, 20 Сен 2017
17.12.2010 14:17

Mantel Clock

 

1mThere’s no doubt about it — whatgrabs your attention right away isthe wood. It’s curly maple. This figured wood is so dramatic that youmight be inclined to think “the woodmakes the clock.” But while I appreciate the beauty of the curly maple,there are a couple other reasons why I like this clock as much as I do.
DESIGN. First of all, there’s thedesign. This mantel clock has a tra ditional look to it. Its clean lines and simple molding would look great nomatter what wood you used.
CONSTRUCTION. The other reason I like this clock isn’t easy to see. In fact,you might miss it altogether, if you weren’t looking for it. In spite of its ele-gance, there’s nothing very difficult about building this clock.Everything is held togetherwith simple joinery, and ithouses a quartz move-ment, which is readily available and easy to install.

CLOCK BODY

The body of this clock is quite simple. It starts out as an H-shaped frame
that’s sandwiched between a layer of molding and a top and bottom.2m
SIDES
. I began work on the body by cutting the two sides (A) to size from 1 / 2"-thick stock, see drawing below. With the sides cut, next I cut a 3 / 8"-wide groove 1 / 4" deep in each side. Then I glued two 1 / 2" x 3 / 8" stops (B) in each groove, see drawing and detail ‘a’ below. The lower stop is for a drawer. The upper stop will position both the clock face and a face frame.  Note that there’s a  1 / 2"-wide gap between the upper and lower stops, see detail ‘b’. This is for a divider that’s added later, refer to drawing on page 2. (One easy way to create this gap is to use a 1 / 2" thick scrap piece as a temporary spacer between the stops.) To complete the sides, the last step is to glue a drawer guide (C) behind each lower stop, see detail ‘b’ on page 1.   These guides fit flush with the out-side face of the lower stop and should stop 1 / 4" short of the back edges of the sides to allow for a plywood back.3m
DIVIDERS. Next, to create the H-shaped frame, I connected the two sides with a divider (D), see drawing at right. This piece is sized so it’s flush with the sides in front and the drawer guides in back, see detail ‘a’ at right.  The trick to gluing the divider and sides is to keep the assembly square. So I used a spacer that matched the length of the divider, see Fig. 1.
TOP & BOTTOM. With these pieces assembled, I added a layer of molding to each end, see drawing above. And then added the top and bottom pieces. First, I cut two cove molding (E) pieces to size from  3 / 4"-thick stock, see drawing. These pieces are cut to create a  1 / 8" lip at the sides and front. (Mine were 37 / 8" x 93 / 4".) 
To shape the molding, I routed the ends and front with a 1 / 2" cove bit, see Fig. 2. Then I screwed them to the sides flush with the back, see Fig. 3. Now with the cove molding inplace, I added 1 / 2"-thick top and  bottom (F) pieces, see drawing These overhang the cove molding 1 / 8" on the front and sides, see Fig. 4a But there is no profile routed on their edges. And since I didn’t want screws showing, they’re simply glued in place.

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