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Воскресенье, 19 Авг 2018
31.12.2010 11:52

Original Trapezoidal Bookcase

BookcaseI don’t think I’ve ever built a perfect reproduction. Even when I really like an existing design, I need the piece to be slightly larger, I prefer some technique over one used in the original construction, or I don’t have the exact materials. In any case, I think that one of the more enjoyable aspects of woodworking is trying new ideas and combinations. So it is with this bookcase, and twice over. I based the design of this bookcase on one made by David Fay , a furniture maker in Oakland, California, who based his design on a turno the 
century Roycroft magazine pedestal. David’s version strayed from the original somewhat, and my design strays from David’s. The results are three versions of the same bookcase, with an overall look in common.
As is the case with much Arts and Crafts furniture, the essential decorative elements of all versions of this piece are the construction details, including the canted sides for stability and the wedged, locking through-tenons. In his interpretation of the original, David left these elements intact, but he omitted the molded crown and used cherry (instead of fumed white oak) and con- trasting panga panga wood wedges and shelf supports. My bookcase is identical to David’s, but I used ash with zebrawood for the wedges. I also made mine knockdown for transporting.

Self-made bookcaseTrapezoidal Knockdown Bookcase

THIS IS AN UPDATED, KNOCKDOWN VERSION of a Roycroft magazine stand held together with through wedge tenons on the top and bottom shelves. The middle shelves are held in position with unglued biscuits. The front edges of the sides are tapered 3 degrees, and the sides also lean toward each other at 3 degrees, giving the piece a trapezoidal shape.

THIS BOOKCASE would be a cinch to build except for the 3-degree trapezoida shape. All of the joinery must be cut at this angle, often with special-made jigs. The best place to begin is with a full-sized drawing of the bookcase (front and side views) on a good-quality light-colored plywood. It will be an excellent and accurate reference through out the whole building process (see “Full-Scale Drawings”).

Self-made bookcaseFull-Scale Drawings
Full-scale drawings may seem like overkill, but they are tremendously useful, especially when the piece is complex. An accurate full-scale drawing lets you take all your measurements from it as you work. You don’t have to fiddle with cut lists and calculate joints and details in your head. Just put a ruler on the drawing, and you have your measurement. They’re also helpful to visually evaluate the size and proportions of the piece. If you want to adapt a design to a different space or to hold some specific objects, the full-scale drawing
helps you see what it will look like. Scale drawings can tell you only so much. Subtle changes that would be all but invisible in a small drawing can be quite dramatic full size. To transfer angles from the drawing to a workpiece or machine, use a large protractor gauge, such as one made by CCKL Creator (available from Lee Valley Tools). It is much larger than a standard bevel gauge, and it allows a greater reach on the drawing and greater accuracy. It also allows you to read the actual angle. This makes resetting it a cinch, which isn’t necessarily the case with a standard bevel gauge.

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