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Воскресенье, 19 Авг 2018
02.02.2011 11:49

Classic Bookcase


It’s what you don’t see that makes this project unique.
Knock-down hardware makes it easy to assemble
and convenient to move.

classic_bookcase_1_mI’ve always wanted to build a large, formal-looking bookcase. But I had visions of wrestling it around my shop when the time came to assemble and finish it. The design of this bookcase changed all that. A simple, straightforward system breaks the project down into manageable sized pieces that are easy to handle.
To see what’s special about the design, you need to look inside. Here you’ll find a “knock-down” system using bolts and nuts to hold things together. Not something you’d expect on a classic piece of furniture. What make this system work is the individual components used to build the bookcase. The base, sides, and top are all built as separate units. Once completed you just bolt them together. And it’s just as easy to take it apart.
You won’t need to hire a moving crew if you get tired of it in the living room. Another benefit to using components is being able to change the overall appearance. By building a different top assembly, the project takes on a completely new look. For example, the classic top with the oval can be replaced with a straight one; see page 7.
WOOD. A classic project requires a classic wood. And tight-grained cherry and cherry plywood with its subtle grain pattern is perfect. For the back panel I used· 1 /4" cherry plywood.
FINISH. When it came time to apply a finish I decided to use a cherry stain. I wanted the rich reddish-brown color without waiting for the aging process. And using stain would even out the color differences between the lighter sapwood and darker hardwood.· I stained with Bartley’s Pennsylvania Cherry Gel Finish. A gel finish doesn’t penetrate as deep as other stains so it isn’t as likely to leave dark blotches. After the stain dried, I wiped on three coats of Bartley’s Clear Varnish.


classic_bookcase_2_mThis bookcase is built in separate assemblies. Normally, I’d build them one at a time. But here, the upper and lower case assemblies are almost identical. (The upper case is 2" shorter.)
Building them at the same time reduced the number of setups.

FRONT & SIDES. Both the upper and lower case assemblies start with a front and two side pieces. I began by cutting the lower case front (A) and sides (B) to finished size; see Fig. 1. And then repeated the same steps to make the upper case front (C) and sides (D). Next, I used a locking rabbet joint to hold the front and side pieces together; see Fig. 2. A tongue cut on the front pieces fits in a· 1 /4"-deep dado cut on the side pieces. The important thing here is to make the tongue fit snug in the dado. After cutting the tongue, I rabbeted the top edge of the lower case assembly and the bottom edge of the upper case assembly; see Fig. 3. These rabbets will hold a top and bottom panel which are made next.




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